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Second and last update on my South African Sardine Run
Its been a week and half since I posted an update here at Ad Astra, and that was not the general idea. However, delayed flights from East London to Cape Town made a very late arrival in Simon's Town. And from there I never had enough time to post, until now that is.
My photos below illustrates pretty well what the Sardine Run is about. A
fast boat out at sea far from the coast, and once Cape Gannets are spotted
diving into the water, the boat sets off in that direction. Meanwhile you'd
better prepare to get in the water fast! Get your fins on, spit in your mask
and rinse it, and wait for instructions. If lots of Gannets still are dive-bombing an area, you will most probably also see plenty of Common Dolphins. My photo below from 26 June 2017, shows that it doesn't really matter if you get in the water or not to see the action, you get as wet either way!
The Bronze Whaler Sharks can be
spotted once you put your head below the waves, and one might see other spieces
of sharks too. When the instruction comes to get in the water, you will be told
not to jump and splash into it, since that will scare off many of the animals
you want to see. My photo below from 27 June 2017, pictures a few of us in the water with the boat some 100m away. This is open sea where the Gannets and Dolphins only two minutes previously where praying on fish. Note the black shadow in the water just left of me and the dorsal fin cutting the surface to the right. With poor visibility you might be just next to a large predator and not being aware of it.
Slip quitely in the water from the boat and swim into the
action if it hasn't moved on and away from the boat and yourself. The boat may
at times be as far as 100m from you and you will see quite a few dorsal fins
break the surface around, most of them will be Dolphin fins though. In most
cases, if not all, you will not put on your scuba gear as the action is so
incredibly fast moving. My photo below from 30 June, captures one of those stunning moments when I caught three Humpback Whales diving past me after trying to get some footage of them for five hours. The photo shows the first Whale that turns belly-up and starts diving after seeing me.
Also, if getting in the water as the boat backs off, leaving you
to face a huge pod of Common Dolphins or Humpback Whales in the water, the noise
using scuba gear will probably alert the Dolphins or Whales approaching you,
and they might turn direction due to this. My photo below shows me on the beaches on Cintsa on 1 July 2017, the last day of my Sardine Run. From this beach the boat launched every morning at sunrise and the first stretch out of the surf was always a bumpy and wet ride, feet had to be strapped to the floor and hands holding on to ropes in order to stay in the boat.
One might have many tries when wanting to get good footage during the
Sardine Run, and big underwater cameras are good for slow moving or stationary
motifs, but this is nothing of the kind. I have only two GoPro cameras for my
dives and its amazing what footage you get from them small cameras. All
underwater footage I've taken has been with GoPros 3+ and 4, of which I fancy
the 3+ most. My photo below from 2 July 2017 is from Nahoon Beach in East London. This is where I spent one night at the Premier Hotel East London for a night, relaxing, using the gym and had a few delicious meals and South African wines.
I am now in Simon's Town since a week back and have made a couple of dives in False Bay. The entire Cape Peninsula is littered with ship wrecks along the entire coastline. I have and will only dive in False Bay, doing deep dives and wreck dives that I will tell about in my next update here on Ad Astra. In total I will have eight dives out of Simon's Town before Friday.
here in Cintsa, Eastern Cape Province, in the afternoon of Sunday 25 June,
having had three flights taking me from Stockholm, Sweden, to East London,
South Africa, where private transport to Cintsa awaited me. All of my
participation in this year’s Sardine Run will be out of Cintsa, as this is
where Simon’s Town-based Pisces Divers arranges its dives and accommodation for
the event. I have arranged so Pisces Divers brought along a new Scubapro 7/5mm
wetsuit for me, that I will buy after the Sardine Run and also use for the
deep-diving and wreck-diving out of Simon’s Town the two weeks following the
Sardine Run. My photo below shows the beaches of Cintsa on 25 June 2017.
26 June breakfast was served at 6:30 a.m. and the boat set off from the sandy
beaches soon after 7:20, us six clients being dressed up in our diving gear
ready to slip into the waters at any minute out on the seas. It was chilly and
the boat had a rough start fighting some huge waves before reaching somewhat
calmer waters further out. It seemed like only me and another guy were keen on
getting a piece of the Sardine Run action at first. We slipped into the water
and swam some 100m from the boat towards a couple of Humpback Whales, only to
see them disappear into the depths as we approached them, tough luck! I have
got some stunning photos of Common Dolphins, see my photo below from 26 June
we spotted formations of Cape Gannets at a distance and headed that way. This
time four of us got in the deep and murky waters. The visibility was here down
to three meters, and I saw a couple of Dolphins around us and two Bronze Whaler
Sharks circling beneath us. All of a sudden a Bronze Whaler Shark appeared out
of nowhere and with great speed, colliding with me as I was recording with my
GoPro. My photo below, from 26 June 2017, shows the moment of collision between
me and the Bronze Whaler Shark. One can see the shark’s left pectoral fin hits
my camera, and out of picture, its nose ended up hitting me. Both man and shark
were unharmed in this incident.
following day, Tuesday 27 June 2017, we started early again and headed out from
land, scouting for some seabird activity as that could indicate Sardines below
the surface and everything that goes with it: Dolphins, Sharks, dive-bombing
Cape Gannets etc. We tried our luck once again on Whales, and I did get some footage of
one diving some 5-6 meters under me in the murky waters. The footage is
not of the highest quality due to poor visibility. Again we saw large pods of
Dolphins, Bronze Whaler Sharks and plenty of Cape Gannets doing aerial
acrobatics dive-bombing into the blue for fish. My photo below pictures a
Bronze Whaler Shark circling below me in waters with poor visibility on 27 June 2017.
strong winds, rain and thunder we had to postpone all sea activities on
Wednesday 28 June 2017, and I mainly spent the day reviewing my footage but
also resting a bit. The weather improved in the afternoon. And today, 29 June
2017, we spent almost a full day out on the big blue. Not everyone did get into
the water today, but we who did tried several times to get good footage of
Humpback Whales. The boat will drop you off and you swim towards the direction
given by the guys on the boat and hoping you get some visual contact with the
Whales. That did not happen today. My photo below is from 27 June 2017,
picturing Common Dolphins and one of us divers snorkeling on the surface. I
find this photo being the best one I’ve taken on this trip so far!
It is common to snorkel a lot on the Sardine Run
since the action is so unbelievably fast! Once you have put on your fins and
mask on the boat and are ready to get in the water, the Dolphins and Gannets
can have moved on following the bait fish that attracts them. This could
sometimes mean 100m or more in a minute or two, giving you a hard time if getting
in the water, getting on the boat again, and setting off to the new location of
the Dolphins and Gannets. Also the visibility may vary considerably due to
this, since the bait fish along with the predators following them, dictates the
location and speed of the action. So far no scuba gear has been used by us due
to the speed and changing location of the action, but also due to the fact we
have had no indications of a huge bait ball of Sardines, that would make things
a bit more stationary or at least slow moving for a while.
- My next update will be from Simon's Town on 3 July, after the Sardine Run.
Full itinerary for my South African Dive Bonanza project
Its now less than two weeks to departure and all flights, accommodations and dives have been arranged for my South African Dive Bonanza project. This will in fact be my first project entirely focusing on diving. The dates for diving out off Simon's Town could be altered due to weather and diving conditions.
24 June: Stockholm
– London (UK)- Johannesburg
25 June: Johannesburg
– East London (SA)
26 June - 1
July: The Sardine
Run along the Eastern Cape Coast
2 July: East
3 July: East London – Cape Town - Simon's
4 July: Leisure
5 July: Rescue Diver pool session
6 July: Rescue Diver sea dives
7 July: Leisure
8 July: Deep dives 1 and 2
9 July: Deep dives 3 and 4
10 - 11 July: Leisure
12 July: Wreck dives 1 and 2
13 July: Wreck dives 3 and 4
14 July: Leisure
15 July: Simon's
Town – Cape Town - Johannesburg - London (UK)
16 July: London
The video above is from East London, some 200km east of Port Elizabeth. Its a small city that I will be spending one night in after the Sardine Run, and before going to Simon's Town and two more weeks of diving there.
- A return to wilderness, mountains and glaciers might follow next year in Patagonia.
My South African Dive Bonanza project will start in two and half weeks from today, and the first leg of this project will be diving the spectacular Sardine Run of South Africa. Reservations are made for five full days of diving in the big blue off the coast of Eastern Cape Province in South Africa.
I will also be spending a night in East London after the Sardine Run, before transferring to Cape Town and from there to Simon's Town. The Western Cape Province and the Cape Peninsula offers a variety of diving opportunities as wreck diving (more than 800 ship wrecks!), deep diving, freediving, corals, sealife and a lot more.
I have made arrangements for some eight dives out of Simon's Town during the two weeks following the Sardine Run, including rescue diver practice, deep dives and wreck dives. A few spare days are available if the weather and sea turns rough.
With me having made the last domestic flight reservations in South Africa earlier this week, all is now set for another spectacular travel project! Considering what I will be able to experience throughout this three week long project, it will most certainly be to a good price.
- My next post will include my full itinerary for this South African Dive Bonanza Project!
In exactly one month I will have completed my first day of diving the Sardine Run along the Eastern Cape Coast of South Africa. Since weather can make or break a full day of diving, I will have five days in total to my disposal for this spectacular event. Whales, dolphins, sharks and a lot more should by all means be spotted in the waters anyway freediving and scuba diving!
I will then transfer from East London to Cape Town and continue to Simon's Town, where I will have some rescue diver training for my upcoming deep dives and wreck dives. Along the Western Cape coast great white sharks are spotted and some fatal incidents occur with some regularity.
As with diving in most cases, weather and sea will dictate when, where and what kind of diving will be performed during my entire three week South African Dive Bonanza project. I expect the waters around the Western Cape to be murky, as in this video from the area, which could end up with close encounters of any sort...
A full itinerary will be posted here at Ad Astra as soon all the reservations are completed. At the moment only reservations for three domestic flights remains, as accommodation has been taken care of.
With five to six days per week of a variety of exercises, including weight training, water training and also cardiovascular excerises, my physical conditioning is improving all the time and my operated shoulder is healed and strong again.
A 3°C temperature rise may be the tipping point where
global warming could run out of control, leaving us powerless to intervene as
planetary temperatures soar. America's most eminent climate scientist, James Hansen
says warming has brought us to the "precipice of a great tipping
point". If we go over the edge, it will be a transition to a different
planet, an environment far outside the range that has been experienced by
humanity. There will be no return within the lifetime of any generation that
can be imagined, and the tip will exterminate a large fraction of species on
In the Pliocene, three million years, temperatures
were 3°C higher than our pre-industrial levels, so it gives us an insight into
the 3°C world. The northern hemisphere was free of glaciers and icesheets,
beech trees grew in the Transantarctic mountains, sea levels were 25 metres
higher, and atmospherc carbon dioxide levels were 360-400 ppm, very similar to
today. There are also strong indications that during the Pliocene, permanent El
Nino conditions prevailed. Hansen says that rapid warming today is already
heating up the western Pacific Ocean, a basis for a coming period of
"super El Ninos".
Between two and three degrees temperature rise the
Amazon rainforest, whose plants produce 10% of the world's
photosynthesis and have no evolved resistance to fire, may turn to savannah, as
drought and mega fires first destroy the rainforest, turning trees back into
carbon dioxide as they burn or rot and decompose. The carbon released by the
forests destruction will be joined by still more from the world's soils,
together boosting global temperatures by a further 1.5ºC. It is suggested than
in human terms the effect on the planet will be like cutting off oxygen during
an asthma attack.
A March 2007 conference at Oxford talked about "corridors of probability" with models predicting the risk of the Amazon passing a tipping point at between 10 to 40% over the next few decades. The UK's Hadley Centre climate change model, best known for warning of catastrophic losses of Amazon forest, predicts that, under current levels of greenhouse gas emissions, the chances of such a drought would rise from 5% now (one every 20 years) to 50% by 2030, and to 90% by 2100.
The collapse of the Amazon is
part of the reversal of the carbon cycle projected to happen around 3°C, a view
confirmed by a range of researchers using carbon coupled climate models. Vast
amounts of dead vegetation stored in the soil (more than double the entire
carbon content of the atmosphere) will be broken down by bacteria as soil
warms. The generally accepted estimate is that the soil carbon reservoir
contains some 1600 gigatonnes, more than double the entire carbon content of the
atmosphere. The conversion will begin of the terestrial carbon sink to a carbon
source due to temperature-enhanced soil and plant respiration overcoming
CO2-enhanced photosynthesis, resulting in widespread desertification and
And it's already happening. A recent study found that the calculated increase
in carbon lost by UK soil each year since 1978 is more than the entire
reduction in emissions the UK has achieved between 1990 and 2002 as part of its
commitment to the Kyoto Protocol. New research published in "Science"
in May 2007 suggests that the earth's ability to soak up the gases causing
global warming is beginning to fail because of rising temperatures, in a
long-feared sign of "positive feedback".
Three degrees would likely see increasing areas of the planet being rendered
essentially uninhabitable by drought and heat. Rainfall in Mexico and central
America is projected to fall 50%. Southern Africa would be exposed
to perennial drought, a huge expanse centred on Botswana could see a
remobilisation of old sand dunes, much as is projected to happen earlier in the
US west. The Rockies would be snowless and the Colorado river will fail half
the time. Drought intensity in Australia could triple, according to the CSIRO,
which also predicts days in New South Wales above 35°C will increase 2 to 7
"Failure for me would be to die and not come home" - Ueli Steck
I read with sadness today that my favourite mountaineer has died. Ueli Steck, also called the Swiss Machine, has been in the Everest region in Nepal preparing for his unbelievably hard and technical climbing project, that combines a traverse on Everest and Lhotse in the same push. Ueli Steck fell to his death this morning while training on the Nuptse mountain, near Camp 1 off the Western Cwm.
I have been following him for years and been so inspired by his attitude, ideas, projects and abilities as a climber, along with lots of climbers across the globe. Ueli Steck was one of the most renowned mountaineers of his generation, and best known for his speed climbing, including setting several speed records for ascending various mountains.
In the video below Ueli tells us about his grand project, less than three weeks ago.
On Ueli Steck's website, this informaton is to be found:
"April 30, 2017
Information to the media
Ueli Steck deadly injured
Ueli Steck was killed while trying to climb Mount Everest and the Lhotse. His family has learned of his death today. The exact circumstances are currently unknown. The family is infinitely sad and asks the media builders to refrain from speculation about the circumstances of his death due to respect for Ueli.
As soon as there are reliable findings on the causes of Uelis Steck's death, the media will be informed. The family asks the media for understanding that they will not provide any further information at the time."
Today its exactly two months left to my 2017 South African Dive Bonanza project sets sail. I will take part in the Sardine Run of South Africa during the last week in June, and I so look forward to it! Only some fifteen years ago, this spectacular underwater event was unheard of, and still today all the factors contributing to the Sardine Run are unknown.
The Sardine Run takes place along the East Coast of South Africa, in the warmer Indian Ocean. However, the cooler waters of the Atlantic Ocean plays a huge part in the origins of the annual Sardine Run.
Surely I have to keep an eye on the sharks that most certainly will turn up in numbers, but the most unsuspected injuries could be delivered by the gigantic whales that are feeding on the sardines, or by colliding with dophins or ganetts plunging into the water as living missiles.
- The full itinerary will be posted here when all arrangements are made!
Holidays are granted for three weeks in June - July by my employers at S:t Görans Hospital here in Stockholm, Sweden, and international flight reservations are made! I have also paid for three weeks of spectacular diving including the Sardine Run. My fast moving and affordable South African Dive Bonanza project will set sail in less than three months from today.
As the first week will have passed on, and under, the waves of Eastern Cape Province of South Africa trying to get as close as possible to the Sardine Run action, some Rescue Diver practice, Deep Diving and Wreck Diving will be launched out of Simon' Town, Western Cape Province. A wetsuit will need to be purchased for the South African winter dives, and domestic flights and accomodation are still to be arranged.
The video below should feed you fascination for the South African Sardine Run.
"From late May to late July each year, the sardines arrive along the South African East Coast. Schools of sharks, such as the bronze whaler, dusky and blacktip shark, follow the shimmering path of prey, feasting on the fish. Marine mammals and game fish follow in hot pursuit. Cape fur seals, humpback and minke whales, and thousands of dolphins are joined by shoals of shad, garrick and geelbek as they dive, snap and feed on what appears to be an unlimited supply of sardines. Cape gannets, cormorants, terns and gulls all dive-bomb the sardines in an aerial assaul. And with me diving in the midst of this, I will take part in one of nature's greatest events! This project is scheduled for June - July 2017."
The second leg of this project will be the rescue diver practice, deep diving and wreck diving out of Simon's Town along the western shores of False Bay, also famous for its great white sharks. The Western Cape region is also well-known for all of its numerous shipwrecks. This region holds the smallest complete floral kingdom in the world and this diversity is mirrored underwater with the unique positioning of the peninsula at the junction of two major ocean currents. False Bay has been recognised as a biodiversity hotspot due to the numbers of endemic animals living in these waters.
- South Africa's Sardine Run, deep diving & wreck diving awaits me!
We are eradicating the apex predators of the oceans
Shark finning is the practice of slicing off the shark’s fins while the shark is still alive and throwing the rest of its body back into the ocean where it can take days to die what must be an agonising death. Some sharks starve to death, others are slowly eaten by other fish, and some drown, because sharks need to keep moving to force water through their gills for oxygen. Shark fins are used as the principal ingredient of shark fin soup, an Asian dish. Demand for shark fin soup has rocketed in recent years due to the increased prosperity of China and other countries in the Far East. Shark fin soup, which can easily cost $100 a bowl, is often served at wedding celebrations so that the hosts can impress their guests with their affluence.
Because there is such a high demand for shark fins, traders can make a lot of money from shark fin, but it is the restaurant owners who really make a killing in this foul trade. Fishermen are only interested in the fins because shark meat is of low economical value and takes up too much space in the hold. It also contains urea, which turns to ammonia once the shark has died and contaminates other fish. Shark fin itself is tasteless, it just provides a gelatinous bulk for the soup which is flavoured with chicken or other stock. Many people, especially the consumers, are unaware of the sufferring that finning causes.
To put it bluntly, shark populations have been decimated. Globally. At least 8,000 tonnes of shark fins are shipped to restaurants around the world. Fishermen report that sharks are getting smaller because they are not being given time to mature. Shark populations take a long time to recover as they can take over seven years to reach maturity and they only raise one or two pups a year. Twenty species of sharks are listed as endangered by the World Conservation Union (IUCN). In a few years many species of shark could become extinct if action is not taken immediately. Populations of many shark species have fallen by over 90%. Since 1972 the number of blacktip sharks has fallen by 93%, tiger sharks by 97% and bull sharks, dusky sharks and smooth hammerheads by 99%.
The consequences of the decline in shark populations on ocean life are immense. The large shark species are apex predators, they are ecological stablisers. For example along the US East Coast where large sharks such as black tip and tiger sharks have been virtually elimated, there have been declines in shellfish numbers and a reduction in water quality since shellfish filter sea water. Populations of small sharks, rays and skates have increased rapidly, consuming shellfish at an unsustainable rate. If you remove apex predators from an ecosystem the result is the same as removing the foundations from a building – total collapse.
Spring is arriving to Sweden slowly, so I figure its time to swap banners again. This photo is from my last wreck dive in Saipan on 10 January 2017. If you have been following my updates from my recent six week long Philippines & Micronesian project, you would know that the first dive of that day was a tank dive, and the the two following ones were freedives.
I got a load of utterly beautiful footage from this long project, and a lot of them from diving. Like the one chosen for the Saipan Banner, which is intended to be on display through the spring and summer.
Preparations for my next underwater bonanza is already on its way! The fabled Sardine Run of South Africa along the eastern coast of the country in June-July, is my new target. Additional deep diving and wreck diving in the Western Cape Province for two weeks is also included in my itinerary.
I will post more info on my upcoming Sardine Run project on the main site www.jeandar.net shortly. The Sardine Run of South Africa is widely regarded as one of natures greatest events.
- More on my upcoming South African dive project in June-July is on its way!
This post will conclude my six week long Philippines & Micronesia project. I intended to see the Taal Volcano as I've been in Manila since Monday morning, but my large diving bag did not arrive with my flight from Chuuk via Guam. So instead of taking photos of Taal Volcano, I've spent three days waiting for all my diving gear and clothes to arrive at my hotel. Guam airport is not a favourite of mine due to several reasons and that's where my diving bag went missing.
My photo above from 13 January 2017, pictures me inside the Japanese Mitsubishi G4M "Betty" bomber. This aircraft was designed in 1939 for the Imperial Japanese Navy and was quite successful during the early part of the war, mostly due to its speed, long range and good carrying capacity. However, their unprotected fuel tanks proved to be their greatest weakness, and even leading to death of famous Admiral Yamamoto ambushed while aboard one flying out of New Caledonia on 18 April 1943.
This particular Mitsubishi G4M failed to make the runway at Eten island and crashed into the sea, where it now lies upright at 18m. The propellers were still spinning when it hit the water, and are found some 50m in front of the rest of the aircraft. There is a large entrance where the cockpit used to be, but one can also enter the fuselage through the waist gun ports on both sides. This is an interesting dive that will use less than half a tank of air.
My photo above is from 13 January 2017. The Japanese Kawanishi H8K "Emily" flying boat was known for its long range and nicknamed the "Flying Porcupine" because it was very difficult to shoot down, as it had self-sealing fuel tanks and internal fire extinguishers. With a 38m wingspan, this is the largest aircraft wreck in Chuuk Lagoon. The four 1850 horsepower Mitsubishi Kasei engines are all still on the aircraft, and a swim beneath the aircrafts wing is recommended! There are plenty of details to look at on the aircraft and close by on the seafloor.
This particular aircraft was bringing back the Japanese Commanding Officer of the Fourth Fleet, his Chief of Staff and other senior Japanese Naval Officers from a meeting in Palau. Fighter aircrafts from the US navy intercepted this Kawanishi H8K "Emily" flying boat, attacking it repeatedly. The pilot still managed to escape the enemy and return to Truk Lagoon, although while trying to land the damaged aircraft the pilot lost control and it crashed and sank. The pilot, Admiral and Chief of Staff survived.
Yamagiri Maru was built during 1938 by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries as a passenger and cargo carrier for the Yamashita Kisen Line, and was launched on 3 May 1939. In September 1941 the Imperial Japanese Navy took control of her and converted her to a military transport for moving special cargo, and she served transporting war material between the Solomon Islands and the Caroline Islands until she was hit with two torpedoes from USS Drum in 1943. The repair can still be seen on the port side of hold number two.
My photo above from 14 January 2017, pictures the huge 46cm shells found on Yamagiri Maru for world's largest naval guns fitted on world's largest battleships: Yamato and her sister ship Musashi. The Yamagiri Maru was sunk by dive bombers from the carriers USS Yorktown and Bunker Hill. They reported several hits and left a huge hole portside amidships that took her down quickly, killing most of her crew. One engineer's skull and body were driven by the blasts into a storeroom's screens and can be seen there still today. Yamagiri Maru lies on her port side at a depth of 30m.
My last dive in Chuuk Lagoon was the large Kiyosumi Maru, as she lies on her port side on the seafloor at 35m. I had some bad luck with my main camera as it shut down at the start of this dive, leaving me with a lot less footage of this wreck than intended. Half way into the dive I noticed it and switched on my second camera, and managed to get some footage of Kiyosumi Maru. This was of course disappointing to say the least, but I did get some pictures of her totally devastated superstructure, personal items and sake bottles. My photo above from the Kiyosumi Maru on 14 January 2017.
She was laid down in 1933 at the Kawasaki Dockyard as a passenger-cargo vessel for the Kokusai Kisen Kaisha company, launched on 30 June 1934, and named on 5 October the same year. The Japanese navy took control of her in September 1941 and converted here into an armed merchant cruiser, fitting her with 150mm guns, torpedo tubes and anti-aircraft guns. During the Battle of Midway she acted as a troop carrier. On 3 November 1943 she was damaged in an air raid, on 1 January 1944 she was hit by three torpedoes from a submarine and towed to Truk Lagoon. Kiyosumi Maru was sunk by US dive bombers on 18 February 1944 in Operation Hailstone, while still undergoing repairs.
My photo from Chuuk Lagoon above is from 13 January 2017. Here's an idea that will save time and money: Combine the three aircraft wrecks as they are quite close to each other. Start to freedive the Mitsubishi A6M "Zero" that lies upside down (see previous post), then move on to the Mitsubishi G4M "Betty" and do a tank dive, as with the large four engine Kawanishi H8K "Emily" flying boat last.
That's exactly what I did and found it being quite pleasant covering three aircrafts in one single afternoon that way. The reason for this approach is simply that freediving is more physically demanding than tank dives, and should therefor be the first dive. A single tank is needed between the Mitsubishi G4M "Betty" and the Kawanishi H8K "Emily", spending some 15-20 minutes on each one of them should be enough.
- In six hours I'll be on my way to Stockholm, Sweden, via Beijing, China.
Chuuk Lagoon - World's premier wreck diving location
During World War II, Truk lagoon (today Chuuk Lagoon) was host to Japan's Imperial Fleet, which was left destroyed in the wake of Operation Hailstone 16-18 February 1944, often called Japan's Pearl Harbor. Today, hundreds of Japanese aircraft and other military machines remain at the bottom of the lagoon, making it the world's best wreck dive location, with some seventy wreck diving sites in and around the lagoon.
In 1969, William A. Brown and oceanographer Jacques Cousteau and his team explored Truk Lagoon. Following Cousteau's 1971 television documentary about the lagoon and its ghostly remains, the place became a scuba diving paradise, drawing wreck diving enthusiasts from around the world to see its numerous, virtually intact sunken ships. The shipwrecks and remains are sometimes referred to as the "Ghost Fleet of Truk Lagoon".
My photo above from 12 January 2017, shows the still fully readable name on Heian Maru in both Japanese and Latin letters. This ship was built in 1930 as a large passenger cargo liner, and her maiden voyage was from Hong Kong to Seattle. While on a routine voyage in August 1941, she was abruptly recalled to Japan. Upon her return, the Japanese Navy converted the ship for use as a submarine tender.
Heian Maru is the largest ship in Truk Lagoon with a length of 155m. She was sunk on the second day of Operation Hailstone, as a torpedo struck her amidships and because of damage already sustained during the earlier raids, the Heian Maru sank quickly. She lies on her port side and her cargo contains many of the deadly efficient Japanese Long Lance Torpedoes, and submarine periscopes. Many artifacts can be found throughout this wreck.
My photo above from 12 January 2017 pictures one of the three Mitsubishi A6M Reisen "Zero" fighter planes found in the Fujikawa Maru, that was built in 1938 by the Mitsubishi Company as a passenger and cargo carrier. The Japanese Navy took possession of her in December 1940 and converted the ship to an aircraft ferry. The conversion included a compliment of old six inch guns on her bow and stern from the Russo-Japanese War.
Just prior toOperation Hailstone, Fujikawa Maru arrived in Truk and off loaded thirty Nakajima B6N Tenzan "Jill" bombers onto Eten Airfield. These aircraft had been disassembled for shipment and were unable to help defend Truk and were destroyed on the ground. Today this ship has an abundance of colorful soft and hard corals. The Times named Fujikawa Maru as one of the top 10 wreck dives in the world, and Aquaviews ranked her as the fourth best wreck dive in the world!
My photo above from 13 January 2017, shows the operating table with some human bones on it, in the Shinkoku Maru that was built in 1939. Her first voyages were to carry oil from the United States to Japan, prior to the embargo. The Japanese Navy converted her to a fleet oiler and Shinkoku's most noteworthy mission was her participation in the Pearl Harbor attack as part of Admiral Nagumo's strike force. She is a large ship with a length of 152m.
In August 1942, she was torpedoed and damaged by an American submarine. She was at anchor in Truk Lagoon at the time of Operation Hailstone, and survived two days of attacks and two aerial torpedo hits before she finally sank. The bow gun of the Shinkoku Maru is heavily encrusted with colorful coral, and this wreck should be a wonderful night dive as the soft corals and hydroids are quite beautiful.
One of the most famous features of the Kensho Maru is her machine room, that can be seen in my photo above from 13 January 2017. She was built in 1938 and the Japanese Navy took control of the ship when the war began, shuttling supplies between Japan and the Marshall Islands. Eventually she was retrofitted with a deck gun and augmented with a Naval Gun Crew and Medical Staff for transporting the wounded.
Just prior to the Operation Hailstone attacks, Kensho Maru was in Kwajalein Atoll delivering supplies when she was bombed by American carrier aircraft and took a hit to her engine room. Unable to get underway, she was towed to Truk by the Momokawa Maru. Both ships were in Truk Lagoon when the attacks began and both were sunk. The Kensho Maru was struck by at least one bomb and an aerial torpedo, she sits upright with a slight list to port.
Operation Hailstone launched on 16-18 February 1944, as US Navy carrier aircraft conducted a surprise attack against Japanese ships anchored in Truk Lagoon (today Chuuk Lagoon), dropping 400 tons of bombs and torpedo. In total, forty ships were sunk and thousands of Japanese died. The airplanes shot down over Truk Lagoon were numerous and mainly Japanese, as they had lost their best pilots during the course of war by 1944.
My photo above, from 13 January 2017, pictures a Japanese Mitsubishi A6M "Zero" fighter aircraft that was one of the victims of Operation Hailstone, as it was shot down shortly after taking off from the airfield, and has been laying upside down at 9 meters depth on the seafloor off Eten island ever since. This makes it a perfect freediving wreck, straightforward without any currents and at least I had hardly any waves at all.
I went to
Saipan, United States Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands, for some
easy diving and also some dives without an airtank. The obvious location was of
course Tanapag Lagoon with its close proximity to Garapan, the main village on Saipan
and my hotel there. I arrived in the evening of Saturday 7 January 2017, and
had plans to arrange some diving the following day. I hadn't made any
arrangements in advance which I usually do, and I lost a full day arranging and
finally getting some diving under my belt in Saipan, through Masa Dive Saipan.
My photo above is from
my first dive in Tanapag Lagoon on 10 January 2017. The Shoan Maru was a large
Japanese freighter that was carrying Korean conscript soldiers as it was
torpedoed by a US submarine west of Rota. The ship was damaged and towed to
Saipan for extensive repairs, when it was attacked in an airstrike on 23
February 1944. The ship was either sunk in this airstrike or during the
invasion of Saipan in June 1944. The Shoan Maru is badly broken up also as
result from post World War II target practice and demolition exercises and lay
on the seafloor at only 12 meters.
All my wreck diving
photos are from 10 January 2017. My photo above pictures me freediving on the
large Japanese Kawanishi
H8K "Emily" flying boat. The wrecks in the relative shallow Tanapag Lagoon
suffer harder blows from typhoons and wave action, than deeper laying wrecks. This "Emily" is quite broken up with parts from it found across the
seafloor around the wing that once spanned 38 meters. Most of the fuselage is
gone and a machinegun turret lays close by. This was a hard 12 meter deep freedive, me being cold after the Shoan Maru dive and also fighting the current, surf
and last dive in Saipan saw the rain stop and the sun come out, and the current and
waves were also better at this wreck site. My photo above shows a Japanese Daihatsu Landing Craft laying on the seafloor at 11 meters depth
in the middle of Tanapag lagoon. Conditions allowed me to have a few good
passes at this wreck, getting some awesome
footage, as seen above. In Saipan you will find the WWII
Maritime Heritage Trail - Battle of Saipan, a collection of
underwater heritage sites featuring Japanese and U.S. shipwrecks, assault
vehicles, and aircraft wrecks from the Battle of Saipan June-July 1944.
Micronesia saw some of the fiercest and bloodiest battles in the Pacific theatre of war, and Saipan had its fair cut of the action which can be seen all over the island. My photo above is from 9 January 2017, picturing me inside the last Japanese Command Post in Saipan during World War II. This bunker is found on the north tip of Saipan along with a few big Japanese cannons, not far from both Suicide Cliff and Banzai Cliff. Towards the end of the Battle of Saipan in 1944, hundreds of Japanese civilians and soldiers jumped off these two cliffs to their deaths in the ocean and rocks below, to avoid being captured by US troops.
My photo above is not from Saipan at all. On the neighbouring island of Tinian you got this World War II airfield. Enola Gay took-off from here with the atom bomb "Little Boy" and annihilated Hiroshima on 6 August 1945. The second atom bomb "Fat Man" was also delivered by a B-29 from Tinian on 9 August 1945, erasing Nagasaki. This was the busiest airfield in the world back then. I took this photo on 7 January 2017, just before landing at Saipan's airport which itself got quite a few World War II bunkers.
- I'm writing this post from Chuuk Lagoon and will be leaving for Manila (via Guam) soon.
I have a passion for travelling, having visited multiple countries on six continents for longer or shorter periods throughout the years. My interests include a wide array of areas, spanning from creativity to scientific matters and culinary delights to physiology and beyond.
I speak fluently English and Swedish, and at best I do fairly well in Spanish, and less well in French.